The Ronnie Rig

I monotonously mention the Ronnie Rig in my Bloggs, been asked many times "what's a Ronnie Rig". So here goes. 

I have showed a few anglers this rig, some have said it's too fiddly or too complicated for them, some have adapted it to suit their way. The most important aspect of this rig is to minimise the amount of feed maximising the the number of fish caught. I have had 100 lb of silvers on less than 1 pint of casters. So give it a try.

History:

Why have I named it the Ronnie Rig? It originates from local angling legend and good friend Colin Golding (RIP). Colin fished and ran the over 55’s at Hunstrete for many years. His only bait for most of the year was 6 mm expander, purchasing a sack every year using them for both hook bait and feeding, his target was Carp and Skimmers. However, as with many commercial fisheries there is lots of small 2 – 3 oz Roach. These small Roach would nick his hooked expanders frustrating him to regularly hear him shout “Fucking Ronnie’s”, never failed to amuse me. I had been fishing this rig for about 25 years and subsequently name it “The Ronnie Rig” about 17 years ago.

Top Sets:

The rig is “to hand” using the top sets from my Drennan poles. I use top sets a lot, hence preference for long ones which is the primary reason for choosing the Drennan Acolyte pole range. I have all three Acolyte poles. Some of their top sets comprise two pieces – called “double top two’s”. This enables me to fish the rig short or long. The long rig is usually fished out in front in the deeper water and the shortened top set primarily down the edge or out in front shallow without change of depth.

Elastics:

Over the years I have tried various elastics, but have settled on the Drennan Power pull Green rated 9 – 11 which is reasonably priced and does two long top sets. When the long gets worn at either the puller or connector it then recycles to the short top sets. I like a bit of a “snotty nose” at the puller giving lighter strike. This elastic may appear heavy for Roach fishing, however, light elastics tend to bounce when swinging, a slight difference in fish weight can be hard to judge how far to lift to hand and can catch you out, occasionally hitting the keepnet. Then, there is the likelihood of hooking a Carp which is always useful to land.

Rig Attachment:

I have recently changed my preferred elastic attachment to that previously explained in the following blog:-

https://silverfoxangling.blogspot.com/2023/11/monday-20112023-elastic-connection-rig.html

Rig Line:

My preference is 0.16 diameter GLine. Again heavy you may think, but it helps with Carp proofing and rig line longevity. Now for a bit of stress engineering, I use a single over hand knot for both attachments to the elastic and hook length. This provides the smallest stress concentration factor and allows better transfer of stresses from elastic to the line, and line to hook length with reduced likelihood of breaking at the knot preventing rig lose. However, all my hook length knots are figure of eights providing a higher stress concentration factor with the anticipation of the hook length being the weakest link. 

Floats:

Again over the years I have tried allsorts of floats, sometimes forced to change due to them becoming obsolete. However, they all had wire stems for stability, roundish body to help presentation in windy conditions and about 3.5 gram. The latest float and so far the best is the Ryan Jordan’s Mini Lifters which has line through body. Ryan has made some specials for me mostly 0.3 to 0.4 gram, some with Niti wire through body, some with Carbon through body and some with wire stems and carbon tips. All these floats have super sensitivity with excellent visibility (I named them sensibilities). They are very robust floats. Shotting the through wires is not as frustrating as some through wire such Sensas Pencil floats. I use the wire through’s when it’s hard fishing primarily on the short top set. It’s amazing how many indications you get with all these floats, there is some learning in reading the indications and when to strike. Certainly lets you know if there are any fish around. No indications then unlikely that there’s fish anywhere near the bait. My preference is yellow tips.

Shotting:

On some occasions I’m speed fishing catching small fish, the last thing you want is for shot to fall off or start moving around on the line causing delays. I therefore use round shot, after all you never see a submarine with a flat Bow. Ballabeni shot is my choice in size 11’s which fits the 0.16 diameter line comfortably. I try to avoid smaller shot but sometimes it’s necessary to use size 12 which I put as the dropper. This Shotting pattern was derived from a well know angler Ray Mumford back 45 or so years. Ray often fished the Bristol Avon in search of the bigger matches and would call me late at night for river status etc...sometimes when in bed! Ray had been to France fishing, primarily to get some inside information on the new method just taking off here in the UK - pole fishing! He came back with what he called the Logarithmic Shotting pattern (some anglers having recently utilised a similar shotting named it the “Taper Pattern”). I used it on the river a few times on the long whip and Stick float but mostly on the Waggler, but the pattern came into it’s own on Commercial and still venues where I discovered its true value. It was really effective on the Gloucester Canal.

Then there is the important back shot. Again a number 11 shot which starts off at approximately 12 inches from the tip of the float. I can adjust the visibility and sensitivity of the float either up or down by moving the shot either further up the line to rise the float or nearer the float to lower it. The moving of the shot is regularly used throughout the match dependant on the cooperation of the Ronnie's.

I have a bit of a reputation for being sparing with the feed – told I starve the fish on the hook. All not quite as it appears. The floats take about 10 number 11 shot and simulate feeding caster with the shot making the similar noise hitting the water to casters and falling at about the same rate, giving the effect of feeding 10 casters every put in, spread along the rigs length, enabling catching fish at all depths through an arc. Think 3D fishing. I try to loose feed along the arc line mimicking the shot. Shotting pattern can be easily adjusted to weigh down or weigh up.

I remember Coilin Golding coming back from the world Championship's in France and his first comment to me was - "Can't understand the French they put the majority of their shot and the top and very little at the bottom". Which back then was opposite to our way of fishing.

Hooks and hook Lengths:

I use Tubertini 808 hooks due to the weight to strength ratio and particular like the wide gape, primarily sizes 18 to 20. Line again is GLine 0.14 diameter for “all in” matches, switching to 0.1 diameter for silvers only matches as Carp protection. Seven turns is ample for hook to line blood knot. I use 0.14 diameter as think it more important to have a stiff line rather than small diameter particularly of on commercial fisheries. Always use 6 inch hook lengths, if using 0.14 diameter then bottom shot can safely moved to the hook length if required. 

I will say if you have a preference to a specific hook and line type which you have faith in then stick with it.

Application:

Rigs are initially set to dead depth and sometimes increase depth or shallow up as the match progresses. The session is usually kicked off by feeding a small ball of GB (whatever is your favourite/manufacture) laced with caster on top of the float which in my case is top set plus one barrel for the long rig and just a top set for the short rig. I start fishing over this with weight down which is more suitable for Skimmers. During the next few minutes I can tell what’s feeding in the peg. I usually start then loose feeding casters or maggot as appropriate, topping up with the GB as required. I try never to use a landing net as I’m sure the more the fish are being played and being chased by a landing net the more likelihood it will spook other fish near by. Will drop a few ounces swinging, but still worth it. If Ronnie’s becomes the primary target then I switch to the shot weight up, but this dependant on how they are feeding. Casting can vary to suit, can slap it down or lay it lighter over head or under hand for an even gentler lay in.

 Species:

This rig is specifically for Roach (Ronnie’s), Rudd, Perch and the occasional Skimmer. The "looking up fish" Carp and F1’s don’t particularly like the falling arc presentation the rig provides.

Monday - 20/11/2023 - Rig Connection

I have been using the rig connection as per picture top right. However, I recently purchase some top sets pre-elasticated as the picture bottom right.

Having tried the latter I've decided to change to this method as and when the current elastics require replacing for the following reasons:

1. Reduction in the number of "links in the chain".

2. Less harsh on the elastic - a top-set may not be used for some time, so with my original method the elastic is continuously under compressive stress, hence causing potential damage to the elastic knot, compared with the new method, which is in a relaxed state.

3. Reduces risk of the Dacron (Fly line backing in my case) going over the toss pot.

4. much easier to set up.

My existing Drennan connectors are easily utilised.

Thursday 12/03/2020 - Logarithmic Shotting

I had planned to fish Tony Rixon's Silvers match at Plantation today but unfortunately couldn't be too far a toilet roll. I dare not take one with me in fear of being mugged for it! So boredom has ensued. Hence the following to answer questions I have been asked many times about the Logarithmic shotting pattern I use. 

Back in the 70's I met up with Ray Munford an Angler I held in high esteem for his lateral thinking.We ended up being pegged next to each other at Newbridge on the Bristol Avon. I believe he explained he was investigating continental poles and associated tackle with some French Anglers. We got chatting and he explained the Logarithmic shotting pattern and how it improved presentation. I spent some time trying it out on the Avon in conjunction with the Image Sticks. Then came along the the commercial fisheries in the late 80's. I started going to Hillview at Tewksbury. One day I fished a match on the first Canal and used one on my canal floats - a 4x12 Jolly which at the time wasn't considered an appropriate float for strength, especially Carp fishing. It had a logarithmic shotting pattern. I easily won the match with 55 lb of small Carp using maggot on top-set plus one. Now that I only fish commercial fisheries all my rigs are initially made up this way.

The floats I use on Commercials tend to be anything from 4x10 to 4x18 - nothing heavier. I only use one size of shot ZLT 11's. This means I could have 14-16 shot on the line for a 4x16 float. This pattern significantly helps to keep the line straight from float to hook, which I am trying to achieve. I have experimented with fine wire as main line to get a direct stiff line from hook to float. These shot fit easily on GLine upto 0.22 (for paste fishing) and for some reason tend to stay on better than most other shot. If I do lose one I know the size and have them to hand. The shot can also be moved easily so the pattern can be spread further or reversed when fishing on the drop. Example of shotting pattern picture below - Drop shot 6 inches form first shot next shot 5 mm, then 10 mm etc...

I won't go into the maths but there is no set start point or initially spacing size, I adjust to suit the species of fish, depth of water your fishing and environmental conditions - wind etc...

I always use a number 11 back shot which I initially set 10mm from the tip of the float. I think sometimes I shot the float too fine but I'm convinced this can be very important during the winter when trying to sense fish in the peg (the straight stiff line enables this). I can adjust the sensitivity of the float by moving the back shot. The nearer the float the more weight added to the shotting moving further away has the opposite affect - simple mechanics. During the dead of winter I have used through wire Sensas Jean Francois Floats and have shotted it with upteen 13's with a single maggot over shotting it!! As sometimes encountered the float can become over shotted especially after a few hours into a match. This can be due to many things, not just water ingress to the float. The main culprit is usually fine particle build up on the lines we use today - I think there is some electrolysis taking place from line static. After a match just check with some white kitchen roll how much "stuff" is all up the line well away from fish slime.

Eyes Open, The Science Is Never Over, Keep Thinking, No Fear, Be Safe.

Float Depth Marking

I often see anglers with their top-sets peppered with white marker pen (tippex/correction fluid) which is used to mark the float depth they have decided on. Looking at the size of the blobs accuracy must sometimes be in question, also in some cases I wonder how they recognise which blob to use. When I used this method some years ago now , I would scrape the marks off after every match, which incidentally doesn't always all come off. For someone (me for example) who strives for accuracy I found this inadequate for a number of reasons.

So with the ever increasing need on Commercial fisheries to utilise different lines ("throw aways", etc...) using the same rig has become desirable. So to quickly and accurately adjust the float the few inches necessary. It is also essential and to ensure that the depth is maintained accurately throughout the match. So I now use a black waterproof marker felt tip pen on my G-Line which is translucent in colour (as is many high tech lines) hence the black is easily to see.

I first find the deepest swim and mark the depth at the top of the float (mostly in my case the top of the rubber on my Jolly). I then find the shallowest swim and mark the bottom of the float and any depth between these settings (see pictures right)

Sometimes after playing Carp (especially if they have gone round the pallet a couple of times and along the inside and far banks) the float can move and by quick visual checks you can maintain the same depth. Plus, if you need to shorten (or lengthen) the line between the float and top-set the same depth markers are still valid, negating the need to re-plumb. I often how re-plumbing affects feeding fish.

I occasionally find that when I thrash around for long periods using the waggler the stop shot and/or float stop can move, so I have also adopted this marking on my waggler. The black works well on Maxima. I only mark the top because the float usually goes down due to the casting forces. Nonetheless, I can see which ever way it moves.

Best of all the marker can easily be removed and the rig reused, providing it's not been gradually wrecked through the match!

If you lose a rig then a complete restart is necessary.

Float Tip Colour Markers

We have all have some Float quick drying colour marking paint in our tackle boxes, no doubt similar to those shown right (I only carry black and white). I prefer these over permanent marking pens as it can easily be removed without damage to the float tip. However, these products tend to have a very short life (sometimes not making it home from the tackle shop) becoming dry and difficult to apply with the product being thick and sticky and not much use because a thin coat is required.

So I have discovered by toping up the bottles with white spirit the products becomes a lot thinner and easy to apply and lasts for ages. I have been doing this for some while now.

I wait for fond comments from my friendly tackle dealer!

Shot Conversion Table

To view full size double click on the table:

Hook Lengths and Knots - Commercial Fisheries

I recently had an email enquiry about hook lengths etc... So in response I have put together this short piece. However, I must say that the following is based on "My way" of fishing and it might not suit every one's approach. I should also add that from my perspective this only applies to Commercial fisheries and not River and Canal fishing as I approach them totally differently - well use to!

LINES: I use Gamakatsu G-Line (dark blue spools) for all my Commercial fishing. I carry 100 metre spools from 0.1 to 0.22 mm in increments of 0.1 mm. I must say that line preference is similar to women - we all have our tastes. The important aspect of line choice is to make sure you get experienced with it and understand its capabilities. Unlike most women the G-Line has low memory so straightens readily once taken from the rig winder with just a little pressure from the top-set elastic. My match fishing is currently focused on Silver fishing, however, the venues I fish contain some high double figure Carp which can lead to a change of focus during a match. So after many frustrating hours I have concluded that the best compromise hook length is 0.14 mm. I can catch everything on this line, from 8 oz Ronnie's (not the easiest fish to catch and always subject to the correct presentation) up to 20 lb Common Carp (I would like to add double figure Grass Carp but can't - yet). So 99% of my rigs are tied with 0.14 mm - Summer and Winter. The 0.14 mm is tied to 0.18 mm main line. I can already hear some saying too heavy... but as I say it suits "My Way" and here is why:

• On average I fish one hundred matches a year - a minimum of two matches a week and therefore do not have much time to re-tie too many rigs, therefore the main line needs to be over sized and durable.
• To aid bite detection I need a stiff mainline which will keep the line as perfectly straight as possible (I will expand on this if I get round to writing about shotting patterns).
• The main line has little to no interface with the fish.
• 0.18 line is the thickest line I can secure a no 11 shot on.

HOOK LENGTHS: The length of the hook length is unimportant so long as it is between 10 inches to a full rig length (straight through). The important element is that the "tell-tell" shot can be moved anywhere from right next to the spade of the hook to 10 inches above the hook. This is irrespective of the depth of water. On all my hook lengths I use a no 11 ZLT lead shot. This is as much as anything to do with age - I always know what shot to use if I lose one!!

KNOTS: My first choice would be to fish straight through without any knots. However, as explained above 0.14 straight through isn't durable enough for me. I do fish 0.16 to 0.22 straight through when fishing the paste. I tie all my hooks by hand whether at home tying them to rigs or on the bank during a match. I do not carry any pre-tied hooks. I will start with my hook knot, which is a simple seven turn "whipping knot", which every match angler knows well. I understand that the minimum number of turns is five, however, I do add two for luck (not that I am superstitious). Some I know add more for "good looks" at the determent of weight I think!! So that's the spade end hook on - or should be. As I do little, to no banded pellet fishing I do not intend to discuss the "knotless" knot - I will leave that to the Carp Slayers. Now the important bit as far as I am concerned is tying the hook length to the main line. There are many anglers that use the loop to loop method, which is the method I utilise when I first started fishing Commercials. However, when my main focus changed away from Carp fishing to the Silvers I got obsessed (and still am) with bite detection. Since retiring I

have had time to analyse my tackle and the loop to loop method left me concerned with amount of potential "lost motion" between the hook and the float. If you look at the picture on the right you will see a loop to loop knot (top). I have really stretched this knot and you can still some potential for "lost motion". I recognise that loop to loop is a very convenient way of connecting hook lengths especially on the bank. I have tried various other methods such as the full blood knot, which is quite complex and not really suitable in match conditions. However, I have found a single knot that is nearly as quick as the loop to loop and extremely strong. But, the knot does not leave the two lines dead straight and in-line and is therefore a compromise to the full blood knot. The knot is a form of "Water Knot" but with only two turns. The picture right shows this knot tied adjacent to the loop to loop. The knot is known as the Surgeons Knot - see tying method lower right. Next time you use the loop to loop have a look at the potential "lost motion" - decide which is best for you.


I also use the Surgeons Knot for tying addition line to the top of my rigs (to fish deeper). I have never had an issue.



Curtesy of matey Martyn Woodington:
http://www.5min.com/Video/How-to-Tie-a-Surgeons-Knot-64269872

Cups

For many, many years I have been making allsorts of pole pots. Starting with pots which had sliding side linkages which hung swinging from the end of the cupping set (I did see one being used recently). I remember spending hours cutting sections of old top sets in half and gluing them to various would be cups – plastic bottles and plastic bottle tops being the most favourite, however, they could damage the top set if not used carefully as did many of the designs that fitted this way. Over the years many of the top tackle manufactures have marketed various designs based on the above concepts. I have now found two types of pots that suit my way of fishing and have been fishing with them for five or so years now and haven’t had a problem.

This first pot is one that I use all year round and most often in some form or other, so I carry ten – all basically the same. I make them myself from children’s “Kinder Surprise” egg containers. In the unlikely event that you haven’t heard of them – see picture top left. The cups are very simple and quick to make. I use both halves the Kinder pot – however, one will be deeper than the other. The deeper ones I tender to use for testicle size GB. To make the cups I heat up the shank end of a 2 mm twist drill and make two clean holes in the base of the cup at approximately 6 mm centres equally spaced about the cup centre. I then get a short length of old no 16 solid elastic and thread it through and tie a single over hand knot so it is just tightened to the cups base (don’t use lubricated elastics as the knots can come undone). It is very easy to move the knot to tighten further to suit the top set, that is until the knot is fully tightened. I then trim of the ends of the elastic. See pictures right of two completed pots. There are many advantages to the application of these pots:

• Very easy to make – just a few minutes.
• Very quick and easy to fit to the top set.
• They will not damage the top set.
• They can be slid up and down the top set very easily. I often slide the pot down the top set after feeding close to the end especially if the wind is a problem blowing the line over the pot.
• If the line does catch over the pot when positioned close to the end of the top set a decent size fish can pull the pot off on to the elastic. I have landed a few Carp like this!
• I use the pots for both loose feeding and when slid down the top set I can use the same cup for shipping out paste hook bait. My so uses two in this mode one for the paste and the other for loose feeding.
• They float.
• C-h-e-a-p – 79p for 2 cups (or as KC has commented - 2 for 64p in Tesco's, even better)!!

The manufacturers have recently made the two halves of the egg hinged. If you buy this type then you need to cut off the hinge. Alternatively you can keep the lid on and burn out holes in the lid. I have made a "Salt" and "Pepper" pot this way, which I used when I fished the canal for very light feeding and to ensure I didn't feed too many swims!!

The second pot is one everyone will recognise which is the Drennen Polemaster pots (the middle size is pictured right). These come in three sizes. However, I only use one size which is the 150 ml (I do carry the smaller one as spare). I mainly use this for feeding GB. If I am to feed six to eight balls on the long pole at the start I sometimes loosen off the screw which holds the pot to the top set. This allows the pot to rotate freely about the pole. This helps prevent early ejaculation!

E-L-A-S-T-I-C-A-T-I-O-N

A pole is a very long slender cantilever and as such the heavier the furthest end is the more the pole will bend and subsequently become less balanced (wobbly) – simple mechanics. For this reason I try to keep the top sets and elastication to the minimum weight. To achieve this I only use match top sets with the number one section removed which means the top set comprises of a number 2 and 3 only, which is much lighter than power top sets (can be up to half the weight). I have used match top sets for many years and have never broken a section whilst playing and landing fish. Remember a pole is a means of storing the fish fighting medium – elastic and for presenting the float/rig accurately at distance. It is definitely not is a fishing rod!! It is unwise to put a pole and pole joints under compression or tension; however, being carbon fibre it does have good fatigue properties.

For 90% of my fishing I limit myself to just two elastics (I can hear Tony Rixon saying tight so and so). I have got to know both these elastics very well and fully understand their application. Because I fish for both Silvers and Carp I need to compromise on elastics to some extent. However, I can land either group of fish on either elastic. The elastics I use are both hollow. I have tried pretty well all types of elastics and combinations including the most recent fad of doubling up lighter solid latex. As I do not use lubrication I find hollow elastics return back in to the pole much better that the double up’s, (dual core is doubled up elastic - isn't it?) etc… I have also tried filling the hollow core elastics with silicon (similar to hydro elastics) but find it makes little to no difference, other than adding additional weight to the top set. To check if the elastics needs cutting back or changing some anglers run the elastic over their lips and if it feels rough they change it. I wait until I see some physical damage before I cut back, there is plenty of margin in the breaking strain.

The Elastics I use are:

1. Middy HI-VIZ Bungee 18 to 22 - blue in colour: I use this elastic when targeting Carp, I am confident of landing any size of fish on it. I buy one reel of the elastic and cut it in half lengths, this does two top sets. At half length it will be approximately half the length of my top set. I then attach a length of fly line backing (Dacron) to one end of the elastic using a loop to loop. I then attach the Dacron to a Drennan pole bung winder, cut to the appropriate length to suit the top set, and so not to foul up with the number 4 section. I then thread the elastic in to the top set and as I don’t use Stonfo’s I attach another piece of fly line backing (as per picture above left) using one over hand knot on the elastic and a pull over loop on the backing. When I am going to use a Kinder pot close to the end of my top set I make the finished Dacron connector about 6.5 cm long. This helps prevent the line folding over the pot when shipping out. I always check that this hasn't happened as to hook a fish with it caught up can be very interesting!! I tidy the whole end up using a Korda Helicopter bead (see top picture right), I use this method of rig attachment on all my top sets. I then adjust the elastic on the winder such that it just creeps back in to the pole. I find that on the first use I need to adjust the tension a bit more using the Drennan winder, so I always carry a bung extractor . I usually keep the same length of elastic in a top set for about 2 to 3 years, this is because it is very simple and quick to remove worn areas near the connector and let off the Dacron at the other!!

2. Maver Dual Core 12 to 20 – pinkish colour: This I use when initially targeting Silvers on Commercial venues, however I have landed big doubles on it albeit it tales a fair bit of patients. I use a complete length attached to a Preston pull-a-bung. I find with a pull-a-bung that it is very easy to pull the elastic to its elastic limit – “bottoming out”. This will lead to losing fish by either breakages or hook bending. I now mark my elastics so I know how far to pull knowing I have some in reserve. I also use my grip on the elastic as a clutch – similar to a reel. I am currently working on a small winder to enable quick changing of the elastics length and to give the elastic a bit more life through being able to cut worn areas back and unwind – similar to the Drennan bung winder described above.

The pictures above centre show the elastics ect… described above.

In addition to the above I carry one top set with a Vespe 1.8 mm diameter - about no 6 to 8 hollow elastic – bright pink, it’s the smallest diameter you can buy. I complete the set up using pull-a-bung. I carry this for the odd occasion when I am losing too many Silvers fish. However, I have landed Carp to 8lb on this elastic. I also have one special “No Limit” power top set with a half length of Maver Dual Core 16 to 20+ dark red elastic (it’s similar to the Hydro of the same colour but a lot cheaper). There is nothing that swims that can’t be handled by this set up providing you have the nerve to fish with 0.22mm diameter lines!! I have landed 20lb plus Carp just on the top set with this elastic!! I do also have a special whip fitted with the blue Middy – more of this later.