Hook Lengths and Knots - Commercial Fisheries

I recently had an email enquiry about hook lengths etc... So in response I have put together this short piece. However, I must say that the following is based on "My way" of fishing and it might not suit every one's approach. I should also add that from my perspective this only applies to Commercial fisheries and not River and Canal fishing as I approach them totally differently - well use to!

LINES: I use Gamakatsu G-Line (dark blue spools) for all my Commercial fishing. I carry 100 metre spools from 0.1 to 0.22 mm in increments of 0.1 mm. I must say that line preference is similar to women - we all have our tastes. The important aspect of line choice is to make sure you get experienced with it and understand its capabilities. Unlike most women the G-Line has low memory so straightens readily once taken from the rig winder with just a little pressure from the top-set elastic. My match fishing is currently focused on Silver fishing, however, the venues I fish contain some high double figure Carp which can lead to a change of focus during a match. So after many frustrating hours I have concluded that the best compromise hook length is 0.14 mm. I can catch everything on this line, from 8 oz Ronnie's (not the easiest fish to catch and always subject to the correct presentation) up to 20 lb Common Carp (I would like to add double figure Grass Carp but can't - yet). So 99% of my rigs are tied with 0.14 mm - Summer and Winter. The 0.14 mm is tied to 0.18 mm main line. I can already hear some saying too heavy... but as I say it suits "My Way" and here is why:

• On average I fish one hundred matches a year - a minimum of two matches a week and therefore do not have much time to re-tie too many rigs, therefore the main line needs to be over sized and durable.
• To aid bite detection I need a stiff mainline which will keep the line as perfectly straight as possible (I will expand on this if I get round to writing about shotting patterns).
• The main line has little to no interface with the fish.
• 0.18 line is the thickest line I can secure a no 11 shot on.

HOOK LENGTHS: The length of the hook length is unimportant so long as it is between 10 inches to a full rig length (straight through). The important element is that the "tell-tell" shot can be moved anywhere from right next to the spade of the hook to 10 inches above the hook. This is irrespective of the depth of water. On all my hook lengths I use a no 11 ZLT lead shot. This is as much as anything to do with age - I always know what shot to use if I lose one!!

KNOTS: My first choice would be to fish straight through without any knots. However, as explained above 0.14 straight through isn't durable enough for me. I do fish 0.16 to 0.22 straight through when fishing the paste. I tie all my hooks by hand whether at home tying them to rigs or on the bank during a match. I do not carry any pre-tied hooks. I will start with my hook knot, which is a simple seven turn "whipping knot", which every match angler knows well. I understand that the minimum number of turns is five, however, I do add two for luck (not that I am superstitious). Some I know add more for "good looks" at the determent of weight I think!! So that's the spade end hook on - or should be. As I do little, to no banded pellet fishing I do not intend to discuss the "knotless" knot - I will leave that to the Carp Slayers. Now the important bit as far as I am concerned is tying the hook length to the main line. There are many anglers that use the loop to loop method, which is the method I utilise when I first started fishing Commercials. However, when my main focus changed away from Carp fishing to the Silvers I got obsessed (and still am) with bite detection. Since retiring I

have had time to analyse my tackle and the loop to loop method left me concerned with amount of potential "lost motion" between the hook and the float. If you look at the picture on the right you will see a loop to loop knot (top). I have really stretched this knot and you can still some potential for "lost motion". I recognise that loop to loop is a very convenient way of connecting hook lengths especially on the bank. I have tried various other methods such as the full blood knot, which is quite complex and not really suitable in match conditions. However, I have found a single knot that is nearly as quick as the loop to loop and extremely strong. But, the knot does not leave the two lines dead straight and in-line and is therefore a compromise to the full blood knot. The knot is a form of "Water Knot" but with only two turns. The picture right shows this knot tied adjacent to the loop to loop. The knot is known as the Surgeons Knot - see tying method lower right. Next time you use the loop to loop have a look at the potential "lost motion" - decide which is best for you.


I also use the Surgeons Knot for tying addition line to the top of my rigs (to fish deeper). I have never had an issue.



Curtesy of matey Martyn Woodington:
http://www.5min.com/Video/How-to-Tie-a-Surgeons-Knot-64269872